I lived in the Marais during my first year in Paris, and Candelaria is one of the spots I kept coming back to long after I moved out. It’s a tiny hole-in-the-wall taqueria and, behind it, a killer, moody speakeasy. Located on a quiet side street in the Marais, the bright neon sign in the window is the only giveaway to the otherwise nondescript shopfront.
Opened in 2011 by Carina Velásquez and Josh Fontaine, it quickly became very popular with local foodies and tourists. 15 years later, is it worth seeking out? Absolutely – twice over.
Worth a visit The best tacos in Paris, served in a tiny, cramped taqueria with a great speakeasy out back. Perfect for a night out in the Marais. Reservations, Ambiance & Service
The taqueria is walk-in only (no reservations) and it’s tiny, so at peak times you’ll be eating elbow to elbow or waiting for a stool. It’s part of the charm, but don’t turn up with six people at 8pm expecting to sit down together. There is one table, but they’ll always prioritise in order of arrival, so don’t expect a long sit-down meal. It’s no-frills, street-food-style dining here.
For the bar, you’ll need to enter through the taqueria. At the back, there’s a plain door with no sign on it – push it and you’re in. It fills up fast, especially at weekends, so get there early or be ready to queue – expect a 15-30 minute wait during peak times.
Service is quick and friendly at the front, and properly knowledgeable at the back – the bartenders know their agave and will happily steer you if you’re unsure.
The Tacos at Candelaria
The tacos here are the real reason I first walked in, and they’re still extremely good – I’d argue the best in Paris.
Options have varied over the years – I’ve seen tacos al pastor come and go, and my favourite, the carnitas (€10), occasionally disappear. Fortunately they’ve been on the menu for the last few years, and they’re really good. A fistful of confit pork shoulder is placed on the plancha and seared, resulting in a killer crust on top and juicy pork in the middle. Finish it with their house salsa verde and you’re in for a treat.
Their chicken tinga tostadas (€10) are another mainstay on their short menu. Confit chicken thigh is shredded and coated with a lovely chipotle sauce, then finished with a cooling crema, diced white onion and coriander.
Their lengua tacos (€10) are also a must-try – slow-cooked beef tongue is cubed, seared and doused with a spicy sauce. It has tons of beefy flavour and is incredibly tender.
I also need to mention their quesadillas (€9) and their quesabirrias (€10). The latter is superb – the melting cheese oozing into the flavourful, tender beef. The pot of consommé on the side makes for an amazing dip.
Finally, their guacamole (€8) is worth a mention – it’s fresh, perfectly seasoned and served with house tortilla chips. I’d also order one of their Mexican beers or their excellent frozen margarita (which comes out of a slushy machine at the bar!) to wash the tacos down.
For me, they serve some of the best Mexican food in the city, and if you’re mapping out the best tacos and Mexican restaurants in Paris, this is the one to lead with.
Note that the tacos are on the smaller side and are served in twos, so the bill climbs faster than you’d expect for what is, at heart, brilliant street food. Come hungry and order a few more than you think you need.
The Hidden Cocktail Bar
Candelaria was one of the city’s original hidden cocktail bars, opened by the team behind Quixotic Projects (the same people responsible for Le Mary Céleste down the road). It’s agave country: mezcal and tequila do the heavy lifting, and the house classic is the Guêpe Verte, a bright, cucumber-and-coriander tequila number with a slow chilli warmth that sneaks up on you.
It’s been on the World’s 50 Best Bars list more than once, and on the night it deserves it. If you’re building a proper crawl, it earns its place among my favourite bars in Paris.
Do be warned, the cocktails are priced like the serious drinks they are. Expect €15-20 per cocktail.
My Verdict
15 years on, Candelaria is still a must-visit in the Marais. Yes, the taqueria isn’t refined or particularly comfortable, but they pump out some of the best tacos in the city. The tacos alone would justify the trip; the bar makes it a night. It’s tiny, it’s busy and the cocktails aren’t cheap, but I’ve never left disappointed and I’ve been coming for years.
Eat at the front, then push the door at the back and enjoy some superbly made cocktails.
I paid for this meal in full This review is entirely independent.What to know before you visit
- The taqueria and the bar are the same address: eat at the front, drink through the door at the back.
- Taqueria is walk-in only and tiny – expect to wait for a stool at peak times.
- The bar gets busy at weekends. Arrive early or expect a 15-30 minute queue.
- Taqueria serves food non-stop from midday to 11pm, but they often sell out before that. The bar runs from early evening until late.
- Expect €40+ per person for food and around €40 per person for drinks.
- Not one for big groups or anyone who wants to sit down quietly.
Address: 52 Rue de Saintonge, 75003
Tel: 09 50 84 19 67
Website: candelaria-paris.com
