Visiting the bohemian 20th arrondissement in Paris and looking for the best restaurants? Look no further – the author to our insider guide lives in the area and knows only the best spots to eat at.
Well off the tourist track, the 20th arrondissement is much more residential than the central districts yet packs a punch with it’s restaurant offering. The relatively large arrondissement stretches from the bustling Belleville area filled with a vast array of amazing Chinese and Asian markets and restaurants down to the Place de Nation. Historically the old industrial area of Paris, the now bohemian district is filled with industrial music venues and the coolest bars. Unknown to most tourists who visit, it’s an area where you’ll find the bars and restaurants where the real Parisians hang out.
The Best Restaurants in the 20th Arrondissement Paris
Our list contains the best tried and tested restaurants in the 20th arrondissement that serve consistently good food and have a killer wine lists to match. Being away from the very centre, you’ll also generally find lower prices and better quality. Restaurants are listed in no particular order.
Le Tablier Rouge
Le Tablier Rouge can be found on a quiet residential street in-between the metros Jourdain and Gambetta. Run by a French-English couple, Le Tablier Rouge is the definition of a really good neighbourhood French bistro. With a beautiful central zinc topped bar serving the intimate dining space, it’s a really cosy restaurant to be in. The left side has a wine cave where you can pick one of their superb (and very reasonably priced) natural or biodynamic bottles.
The small kitchen at the back of the restaurant puts out some very well cooked food. It’s good, honest home cooked food that’s consistent and very well seasoned. The menus change frequently and with the seasons and what comes in from their suppliers.
It’s classic French with some English inspirations such as the chutney served with their house rabbit terrine and a very good fish and chips. Iberico Secreto is grilled to perfection and served at a nice medium rare and comes with a lovely jus and solid roast potatoes.
What to know before you visit
- Closed on Sundays and Mondays
- Open for lunch and dinner
- Call to reserve
Address: 40 Rue de la Chine, 75020
Tel: 01 46 36 18 30
Website: https://www.letablierrouge.com
Aux Petits Oignons
A 5 minute walk away from Le Tablier Rouge lies another excellent, popular neighbourhood bistro. Aux Petits Oignons is a charming local restaurant located in an old butchers shop. You’ll only find locals here eating in a friendly and very traditional bistro dining space. They’re open all day and during the summer have a very nice outside terrace on the surrounding quiet streets.
The food is solid and unpretentious – you’ll find typical bistro food here such as steak frites, their special charcoal bun cheeseburger, beef tartare and Côte de Veau with dauphinois potatoes. They’ve also got a fantastic, small wine menu with some excellent bottles at very reasonable prices. You can order a stunning bottle of white burgundy for only €35.
What to know before you visit
- Open every day until 1am
- Call to reserve
Address: 11 Rue Dupont de l’Eure, 75020
Tel: 01 43 64 18 86
Website: https://auxpetitsoignonsparis.fr/en
Le Jourdain
Le Jourdain is a cracking neo-bistro located inbetween the Buttes-Chaumont park and the Jourdain metro stop. Featured in our Best Restaurants Paris guide, Le Jourdain is a great example of the modern Parisian dining scene with forward thinking food and a banging wine menu to boot. The restaurant is small and you’ll need to book in advance to get a table. The retro bar matches perfectly with the vintage light fittings emitting a warm, dim glow onto the typical French bistro tables. It’s all very 20th arrondissement.
In the evening Le Jourdain’s menu is all about small sharing plates and are very well priced. There’s traditional tapas options such as Iberico ham, home made terrine and oysters. The slightly more expensive dishes are playful – beef or veal tartare with crispy garlic crisps and a house oyster mayo. Vegetables get the ‘steak treatment’ – eggplant/aubergine is confited, grilled and then glazed with miso. The wine menu is all natural and they’ve got some excellent bottles from small producers.
What to know before you visit
- Closed on weekends
- You can reserve online
Address: 101 Rue des Couronnes, 75020
Tel: 01 43 66 29 10
Website: https://www.lejourdain.fr
La Vierge
Unfortunately La Vierge is now closed.
La Vierge or the Virgin in English named after the small (and now stolen!) statuette of the Virgin Mary in the bistro’s candle lit toilet. Make the pilgrimage over to the quaint little restaurant off the Place de la Réunion and you’ll be rewarded with some great food and wine. Chef Alice Newman is at the helm here after taking over from Jack Baker, keeping the epic small sharing plate theme going.. The warm, simple interior is airy and has plenty of space for larger bookings. At the end of one side is their wine cave where you can choose one of their excellent natural wines to go with your meal or to take away.
The food in the evening is all about small sharing plates. With a focus on market ingredients, the menu changes frequently depending on the best, local seasonal produce. It’s home cooked style food but done extremely well. Roast guinea fowl is served with seasonal wild girolle mushrooms, fresh corn and finished with a lovely jus from the bones. Home made pasta frequently makes an appearance as does game, when in season.
What to know before you visit
- Currently closed on Sundays
- Open for lunch and dinner
- You can reserve online
Address: 58 Rue de la Réunion, 75020
La Colline
Back to the middle of the 20th, La Colline is the new sister restaurant to Le Jourdain. Opened in September 2023, La Colline takes over a site that has been home to different restaurants for decades. Open for breakfast through to dinner, it’s a great spot to pop in for a coffee or a glass of wine for apéro before dinner. The unusual building features a very high, exposed ceiling which gives you a particularly rural, rustic feeling.
The brand new high-tech kitchen pumps out quality, simple cooking. Unlike Le Jourdain, the menu format is more on the traditional side with entrées, mains and desserts. The food is classic French all the way. Sirloin steak with French Mac & Cheese (aged comté, of course), stone bass fillet with beurre blanc and home made profiteroles for dessert. Naturally there’s an awesome wine list and locally brewed IPA on tap for those who are thirsty.
What to know before you visit
- Closed on Sundays
- Open from 10am to midnight
- You can reserve online
Address: 10 Rue Pixérécourt, 75020
Tel: 09 51 07 78 68
Website: https://www.restaurantlacolline.fr
